Kusama Infinity Frock

a medium green cotton top with a round neck and full, ruffly sleeves set above the elbow, with pink infinity net loops around the neckline and in tendrils curling down across the bust, and also along the bottom edge, with tendril curling up a few inches. some blobs of net loops in pale blue float across the upper section of the green background. a garment made by yayo kusama being sold at rago in nov 2025
Yayoi Kusama, Untitled blouse, 1968, acrylic on cotton, 32 1/4 x 48 in., selling at Rago Arts

There’s rare, and there’s actually rare, and this, I think, is the latter. Yayoi Kusama’s version of her fashion career is almost certainly a fantasy: that in the 1960s she sold a collection of clothing to Bloomingdale’s as part of her overarching artistic mission to cover the universe with polka dots.

What’s real, though, is that she made several pieces of clothing, including for herself. And, it turns out, including for some lady who’s selling her Kusama top at Rago this month:

The garment was commissioned by the husband of the present owner, who asked Kusama if she might make a dress for his wife. The fabric was selected by the dress’s owner, who was fitted personally by Kusama, who did not use a pattern. “The design was entirely [Kusama’s], she recalls, “created while she was deeply absorbed in the process. She asked for little input and never measured or drafted. The painting was done by hand, while we were there. Kusama used bright pink and blue acrylic paint in her recognizable, organic forms.”

It’s actually kind of incredible, as a story and an art object. It’s covered, not with the polka dots Kusama was painting on everyone in 1968, but with her Infinity Net motif, which she’d begun a full decade earlier. It’s also kind of weird, though, because the Infinity Net loops are painted around the neck and hem of the blouse in a decorative way, as if they were lace or embroidery. Which might undercut the Infinity Net concept, while making for a very pretty top.

Fashion-wise, or in terms of what goes on the body, I do think Kusama’s most important model is herself. The way she has systematically photographed herself alongside, in front of, and as a part of her artworks is worth a show, a book, and a PhD. And it’d put some deeper historical context around the art alien obāsan persona that led to her emergence as a global icon.

12 Nov 2025, Lot 159: Yayoi Kusama, Untitled, 1968, est. $30-50,000 [ragoarts]

どうでもええ… LV X YK Surfboards

a white surfboard with red dots all over it and the name louis vuitton running down the center in tighter red dots, leans against a white wall. being sold at sbi auction in japan in july 2025
The best thing I can say about this is it’s 224 cm tall, via SBI Auction

I could have gone another couple of years without realizing Louis Vuitton made several hundred Yayoi Kusama surfboards as part of their sprawling animatronic collabsploitation in 2023.

There’s a longboard and a shortboard variant, and at least two motifs: dots and tentacles. The PR copy regurgitated on all the hypesites says they’re a tribute to Kusama’s pumpkin sculpture on the dock at Naoshima. If that’s the true, then why aren’t they all destroyed in a typhoon?

12 July 2025 lot 69 [not nice] | LV x YK Surf (red & white), ed. 100, JPY1.5-2.5m [sbiauction]
Previously, all too related: Kusama X Vuitton: ‘I was finally able to bring home the crown’; The Infinity Room is now an LV Pop-up

The Society Of The NikeLab Infinity Room

I was going to ask AI to create a Yayoi Kusama X Nike shoe drop collab, but it turns out Random.Studio already did it in 2016.

[N.B.: Random.Studio are the designers behind the fake solar-powered Lexus at ICA Miami right now, NOT, I think, the designers behind the NFT-generating LED funhouse, Living Room, at Miami last year. That was Random International, who made the Rain Room for Restoration Hardware. EXCEPT Random International’s social media handle IS RandomStudio_ Honestly, that feels like a troll.] Anyway, to the collapse of art, experience, capital, and spectacle:

Continue reading “The Society Of The NikeLab Infinity Room”

The Infinity Room Is Now An LV Pop-up

Kusama, an LV X Kusama scarf and bag on her lap, personally oversees every dot on the second floor of her immersive LV X Kusamaverse pop-up store in Harakuku. Image: Ota Fine Arts IG

Let’s stipulate that the artist either approves or at least knows about it. She’d certainly recognize it. But what exactly is going on with the Kusama X Louis Vuitton collaboration? To find out, I turned to an expert [whoever rewrote this December 2022 press release for Hypebae]:

The collaboration comprises ready-to-wear, bags, shoes, luggage, trunks and fragrances, set to launch in two distinct parts. The first drop is set to feature Kusama’s “Painted Dots,” “Metal Dots,” “Infinity Dots” and “Psychedelic Flower” collections, with a second drop due to launch a few months later. The application of every dot on each piece has been personally overseen by Kusama, alongside many of the objects that make up the partnership, with a distinct focus on precision and detail.

Continue reading “The Infinity Room Is Now An LV Pop-up”

Kusama X Vuitton: ‘I Was Finally Able To Bring Home The Crown’

Ota Fine Arts Instagram post of Kusama visiting the Louis Vuitton Omotesando store and Harajuku pop-up, 20 January 2023, confirming that the artist is indeed aware of the collab.
Kusama mannequin installed at the NYC 5th Avenue Vuitton store in 2012, still from NHK/BBC

This will be one of two posts about the current collaboration between Yayoi Kusama and Louis Vuitton. The reaction to the current campaign feels different from the original 2012 campaign. There is concern over how much the 93-year-old artist was involved in the collab, given its vast scale and its hundreds of related products, or even if she is aware of it. This concern was exacerbated by photos on Instagram of a collector posing with a seemingly disoriented Kusama in her hospital, which were particularly at odds with the elaborately styled and carefully managed character she presents at her public appearances.

Kusama being photographed holding various Louis Vuitton products in 2012, image: NHK/BBC

This worry of exploitation of an artist by, in this case, a cabal of dealers and a the world’s biggest luxury goods company owned by the world’s richest man, is valid, but not easily addressable. I don’t know how this deal went down, or who gets what from it, except that it is clearly massive, and involves the concerted, sustained efforts and investments of some of the most powerful people in the art, fashion, and retail industries. It seems significant that the content of this collab is based, not on new work or effort by Kusama, but by an existing product—literally one object, a painted trunk—from the 2012 campaign. [The second post will be a closer look at what is actually happening on the ground, which goes far beyond animatronics.]

Continue reading “Kusama X Vuitton: ‘I Was Finally Able To Bring Home The Crown’”

Kusama Accumulated Self-Portrait

Yayoi Kusama, Accumulation of Letters, 1961, gift of the artist to Stella Waitzkin, sold at Sotheby’s in 2013

There were so many avenues to pursue in writing about Yayoi Kusama and her work; one that I found among the most compelling and the least considered is her practice of photographing herself among her work. I mean, it gets mentioned by various historians or curators, but I didn’t find anyone doing a deep, critical look at Kusama’s always deliberate, constructed, and embedded imagemaking of her body and her [sic] artworks.

Midori Yamamura’s research found examples of Kusama doing this at the very beginning of her artistic practice, organizing shows of her own watercolors at the Matsumoto civic center as a teenager. But it’s there with the Infinity Net paintings, and it’s there with the Accumulation Objects, too. And in between these two bodies of work, it is here in this 1961 work on paper that is related to the Air Mail stamp works she made and showed beginning in 1962.

Even though it interests me, I take auction catalogue essays with a raised eyebrow, but Sotheby’s nailed this one:

Accumulation of Letters is arguably one of the most art historically important works by Kusama. In many ways it can be read as a self-portrait, the artist’s name, or signature, standing in as a metaphor for the self. Known for her promotional talent and flair – Kusama regularly arranged for professional photographs to be taken of her with her work often wearing outfits that matched the paintings or sculptures – Accumulation of Letters acts as an artwork-cum-advertisement. In the exhibition catalogue for Kusama’s 2012 traveling retrospective, Rachel Taylor writes that Kusama “situated herself at the centre of her artistic universe, the key protagonist in a world populated by proliferating forms, endless nets and infinite polka dots”

Lot 309, Sotheby’s NY, 25 Sept. 2013

This Accumulation of Letters is made by cutting up hundreds of left over gallery announcements from two shows at Gres Gallery in Washington, DC: one was a solo, and the other a group show of Japanese artists. Beyond the obviously laborious process, and the artist’s totalization of herself and the work, I am struck by the wrenching pathos of this piece, of those stacks of invites sitting in her studio. All these cards left over from shows out of town that no one in New York would see, or had seen. What was she supposed to do with them?

As it turns out, she gave this piece to a friend, an artist named Stella Waitzkin, who’d fled to downtown from the stifling patriarchy of suburban Long Island. Since surfacing at Sotheby’s in 2013, Accumulation of Letters has been shown at Kusama’s museum in Tokyo.

Previously, related: The Kusama Industrial Complex

Mecha-Kusama

an interpretation of Kusama driving a mecha, by vanbueno for greg.org

[tl;dr I commissioned two anime artists to depict Yayoi Kusama in a mech-suit to hype the article I just wrote about her. Shout out to vanbueno {above] and onki [below] for their amazing work!]

One of the big questions we set out to answer when writing about Yayoi Kusama for ARTnews was how does the artist keep making so much work, of increasing scale and complexity, well into her 90s? Kusama has always worked at a relentless, obsessive pace; it’s as much a part of her story as of her practice. But her most high-profile work of the last decade especially–Infinity Mirror Rooms, installations, and giant pumpkins–and her many large-scale museum exhibitions, obviously requires an extensive organizational and fabrication infrastructure. How does that work, and who’s really in control of it?

Continue reading “Mecha-Kusama”

The Kusama Industrial Complex

“SKY Unveils Artworks by Yayoi Kusama New York City, USA – 05.04.16 Photo – J Grassi” For a long time I worked to get the article to land on this photo, of two real estate developers unveiling their fresh, new Frieze Fair Kusama in the prop library of their huge rental building on 42nd and 11th or wherever. They have the only bronze pumpkin on public view in New York in the motor court, too.

At the end of February/the beginning of March, just as the Covid-19 pandemic started impacting the US, I was asked to make sense of the increasingly broad and intense interest in Yayoi Kusama and her work. As someone who’s looked at her work and tried to get smart about it for more than 25 years, I had tried to stop being surprised at how popular Kusama’s work has become–and I repeatedly failed. I just could not account for it. But I welcomed the challenge to figure it out.

Fortunately, there has been a surge of recent historical and academic interest, and a huge blind spot where Kusama’s Japanese career is concerned. So as museums and library shutdowns loomed, I dashed around town, taking snapshots of every Kusama-related publication the Smithsonian had: more than 1,500 pages, and then I started reading, and contacting scholars and curators and dealers, some of whom were very responsive to my inquiries. For their time and insights, I am very grateful. For those who did important work and never responded, I guess thanks for your work. For the unexpectedly large number of folks who did not respond at all, my interest is piqued.

The resulting article was published in the Summer issue of ARTnews, and is now available online. I’m fairly pleased with it, and am especially grateful to the editors at the magazine who helped guide and shape this look at an artist whose ambition and tenacity are absolutely unparalleled; Kusama has made transcendent, groundbreaking artwork while overcoming immense obstacles, both from within and without. I think her work holds a mirror up to the art world and how it’s changed in her 70+ year career.

The Kusama Industrial Complex [artnews]